Spotted: Fashion's Facts over Fiction
Fashion's Facts over Fiction
There’s a rumour going around the fashion industry. Widely acknowledged, religiously believed and hardly ever questioned. Only few of the loyal members in the global fashion family bravely stood their ground - and still do - when it comes to investigating this rigorous statement: The fashion industry is the second largest polluter of the world.
Bold declaration to begin with but it takes even more courage to defy it. Chief Fashion Critic of the New York Times since 2014, Vanessa Friedman is one of those fearless souls trying to argue for journalistic reason instead of tenacious human ignorance. In an article published on December 18th in 2018 to the paper’s website, Friedman gets to the bottom of ‘the biggest fake news in fashion’. In doing so, she quotes a report printed by the journal Natural Science in 2012, as it talks about the textile dyeing and finishing industry being the ’No. 1 polluter of clean water (after agriculture)’. It seems as though the world has accepted the simple pronouncement of the oh-so-evil fashion industry for its convenience and catchiness. Yet there is reason to question this worn-in argument that always sneaks its way into conferences and articles about sustainable fashion, but never out of them.
With the United Nations Sustainable Development Agenda for 2030, this issue has kept the spotlight within reach, concerning many of the stated goals: Good Health and Well-Being; Clean Water and Sanitation; Industry, Innovation and Infrastructure; Responsible Consumption and Production; Human Rights; Poverty. In order to drive forward these guidelines, the UN has launched their own initiative, the UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion, to help reduce environmental and social impact of the industry. It is also on their site where one can find the statement saying that fashion in its whole ‘is responsible for 8-10% of the world's greenhouse gas emissions’- sources however are nowhere to be seen. Now this isn’t to distract nor doubt the fact that the fashion industry does indeed contribute to Climate Change in detrimental ways, rather how humans get sold easily on ideas they already believed in the first place. Needless to say, the industry behind all our favorite pieces of clothing has a few of its own skeletons in the closet, besides the most recent collection of Prada, Gucci & Co. But where exactly does this dauntless accusation get its fuel from?
The documentary ‘The True Cost’, released in 2015 by Andrew Morgan, explores the price paid for garment production more in depth than any other outlet. Following a young woman employed in one of the many clothing factories located in southeast asia, the film weaves a narrative around the pollution generated every year. Exploitation and Human Rights violations are sadly part of everyday life for the mostly female workers. The conditions these women have to endure are a side-effect of the main market strategy in the industry surrounding the model of Fast Fashion. While western consumers are more focused on the price tag, employees of garment factories try to feed their children and get by on the roughly dollar of wage a day. Minimum wage and inhumane working conditions is for many the obstacle standing between job security and shelterless living (which is the main argument of production supervisors and heads of companies). Besides exposure to harmful chemicals in dyeing processes, workers fall victim to factory malfunctions resulting in deadly fires and building collapses. Prime example for such an event is the 2013 Dhaka collapse in Bangladesh that claimed the lives of 1135 humans, working in the building at the time. Tragically, this is just one of the many incidents that happened over the past years. Without a shadow of a doubt is the UN relying on leaders of fashion corporations to tackle these issues, like Vogue editor Rachel Cernansky clearly lays out in an article about the same topic: ‘Fashion ranks high among the industries that need to take action given its size and impact’
'' The industry is going to change a lot
- for the better. ''
But it is not only the clothing industry that is being confronted by these allegations. Back in November of 2015, Néstle openly admitted to forced labour, alias slavery, in multiple supply chains in Thailand, whilst being involved in a lawsuit on child labour on the Ivory Coast. At the end of 2019, Tesla’s CEO Elon Musk among other executives were accused of sabotaging efforts to unionize factory workers in their Californian facility. When one however searches for ‘industry violating human rights’, the first result that pops up is an analysis on ‘Bringing Human Rights into Fashion’ by the German Institute for Human Rights. In the end it is not only Prada, Zara, H&M & Co. who ought to revise their production processes but many other industries as well.
Among the arguments stated in favor of the ‘fact’ that the fashion industry is a runner-up polluter in the world, is their contribution to water pollution and consumption.
The first images that come to mind are pink, red and blue bodies of water in Asia and the infographic showing how much water is needed in order to produce one pair of jeans (Levi’s famous 501® gulps 3.781L ). Typically these towering amounts of water flow into manufacturing steps like washing, bleaching, dyeing and cleaning the final product. What can’t be disregarded however are the steps before the actual production process, including sourcing the fibre itself. These include the four most common fabrics silk, cotton, wool and synthetics like polyester. For cotton farming alone, the water use reaches a staggering 204 Gm3 per year, not to mention silk and wool being water-intensive fibres as well. It goes without stressing, that the textile industry does indeed contribute with a high water consumption and pollution, however, the fact that textiles aren’t exclusively used by the fashion industry is equally worth mentioning. ‘Home wares’ and ‘bedding’ are two of the recipients which don’t fall under the clothing catalogue, although they make up a substantial amount of the textile usage. When weighing in the facts that surround our clothes, we more often than not rather ignore the impact it has on our daily routines and habits, may those me physical or mental. One influential part of the life we live day in and out is our nutrition. Agriculture and Livestock present a far higher infringement on the environment's condition. With a drastically growing demand (7.3 billion units in 1970 to 24.2 billion units in 2011) agriculture is responsible for 70 per cent of water withdrawal worldwide. The wastewater generated in this sector derives primarily from cleaning and processing the products. It is then where fertilizers, pesticides and other chemical compounds like antibiotics find their way into groundwater systems and contaminate the roughly one percent of the earth’s water we actually have at our disposal. And it is here where I ask myself, why we focus on a fact that doesn’t have concrete backup concerning our clothes rather than acknowledging our daily nutritional footprint? What is fueling both of these industries (pun intended) is first and foremost the oil its machines need to function frictionless and oil spills make up 12 percent of the oil that enters the ocean.
An integral part of the discussion surrounding the fashion industry's impact on the environment is the realization of the interconnectedness between all of these industries. Electricity and fossil fuels power global factories, may those be producing garments or milk, not to mention ground and air transport of finished products. Polyester is synthetic fibre made up of plastic that is also found in water system thanks to the bottles and bags we are too lazy to recycle. Leather is a by-product of the Livestock industry and the list goes on. Arguing in favor or against the truth behind the infamous statement becomes irrelevant when looking at seperate statistics. Evidently, one simply can’t deny the negative consequences of an increasingly globalised economy when focusing on supply chains and production processes. It is in the end a twisted joint effort and has little significance who tops the ranking as first (or second) polluter of the environment, instead the fact that they purely do.
Behind manufacturing is always the demand and need of the consumer. The average person purchased about 60% more clothing in 2019 than in 2001, a significant increase over a period of only 18 years. This shows that fashion has given in to the concept of disposability and the branch of minute-made Fast Fashion, releasing up to 24 collections in 2016, twelve times the amount of the year 2000. Fast, cheap and up-to-date are the guidelines of modern garment manufacturing. No wonder almost ‘three-fifths of all clothing ends up in incinerators or landfills within a year of being produced’. What this industry needs is not accusation after accusation believed and quoted for its mundane simplicity but tackling the issue at its root - one that connects all of the typical climate-culprits (Agriculture; Fossil Fuels/ Power; Transport; Oil/Gas; Industry).
'' I started to
distinguish more between
wants and needs ''
With a new generation not asking but commanding for the change needed to turn fashion around, comes a fresh mentality shared by its members. Charlotte Nissen, aspiring danish fashion designer, is one of such outspoken and forward-thinking individuals. ‘The industry as a whole has to be remodeled.’ Having worked in one of the many stores of the fast fashion brand ‘COS’ in Copenhagen, she got an insight not many get to enjoy. ‘[Knowing the production process] has made a major impact on where I buy, but also my buying patterns. I stopped shopping in sale just [for the sake of doing so]. I started to distinguish more between wants and needs and I definitely think it comes from that.’ Responsible consumption is a key word for many millennials and Gen Z’s as part of the mission to right the wrongs.
Charlotte Nissen, @charlottenissen
Nissen vouches for a brand’s transparency, especially on social media to showcase the turnaround they try to achieve to their loyal customers. The demographic for sustainable fashion is there, designers and corporate managers just have to seize that attention. ‘Designers have to be very aware of what’s going on in the world.’ In her opinion, sustainable fashion undoubtedly has a future in the industry without compromising it as a creative outlet. ‘ Designers need to do a lot more reworking and up-cycling of [used] garments and fabrics. You can still be creative with recycled materials. If [they start] doing that, it would add a whole new layer to the industry.’ Cherishing the leftover fabric scraps from finished collections is an idea implemented by many designers already. The likes of Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney and young Daniel W. Fletcher with his famous ‘Arctic Landscape Dress’, promote sustainable consciousness while still creating modern clothing assemblies. Creative Director Sarah Burton gifted McQueen’s fabric archive to fashion grads in february this year (2020) and McCartney has long been known as the ‘Queen of Sustainability’ thanks to her eco-conscious collections. Fashion slowly but surely experiences a shift in priorities and values. Nissen is optimistic: ‘ The industry is going to change a lot - for the better.’
Daniel W. Fletcher working on an 'Arctic Dress'-inspired blanket, @danielwfletcher
Until we reach that final destination of a well-rounded and barely harm-inducing commerce, we have to consider serious market strategies that pave the way. Specialized consultant Dr. Anna Brismar developed the ‘Green Strategy’, otherwise known as sustainable ‘Circular Fashion’, proposing a new perspective on garment manufacturing. Since the Fast Fashion model is no longer a suitable long term solution, Brismar came up with seven steps to a sustainably sourced garment: On Demand and Custom Made; Green and Clean; High Quality and Timeless Design; Fair and Ethical; Repair, Redesign and Upcycle; Rent, Lease and Swap; Secondhand and Vintage. Only if all of the mentioned attributes are successfully achieved, is the piece of clothing environmentally friendly sourced. Nearly half of those steps are in the hands of the consumer, leaving the choice up to each and everyone of us. And the decision is simple: fixing instead of throwing out, sharing instead of getting lost in the depths of the closet and thrifting instead of fast fashion. All we have to do is opt for the right choice.
'' You can still be creative with
recycled materials. ''
As 2030 draws closer, the fashion industry still has a long way to defray and with it, all of its multi layered supply chain contributors. Focusing on one branch while forgetting about the other is never going to get us to the goal we strive towards. An unbiased and well-informed mind is essential to climate action success, one that puts quality over quantity and truth over untruth. Simple statements are more often than not lacking serious background information and the current climate crisis calls for action instead of accusation, no matter the targeted perpetrator. The time has passed to lose oneself in pointless competitions about rank and fictitious stories far away from facts.
